Myanmar's national dish: a thick, lemongrass-and-banana-stem-scented catfish broth thickened with toasted rice and chickpea flour, poured over rice vermicelli. A slow-built breakfast soup sold from street carts across the country.
Poach the fish
Put the whole catfish, water, lemongrass, half the garlic and half the ginger into a large pot, bring to a boil, then simmer for thirty minutes until the fish is falling-apart tender.
30 minFlake the fish
Lift out the fish, let it cool for ten minutes, then flake the flesh off the bones, discarding skin and bones, and strain the broth.
10 minToast the rice
Toast the uncooked rice in a dry pan for five minutes until golden, then grind to a coarse powder.
5 minBuild the aromatic base
Blend the remaining garlic, onion and ginger with the ngapi and turmeric into a smooth paste, then fry it in the oil over medium heat for eight minutes until deeply fragrant and darkened.
Combine and simmer
Add the flaked fish, sliced banana stem and the strained broth to the fried paste, bring to a simmer, and cook for forty minutes to let the flavours build.
40 minThicken the broth
Whisk the chickpea flour and toasted rice powder with a little water into a smooth slurry, stir it into the simmering broth, and cook for ten minutes, stirring often, until thickened.
Season the broth
Stir in the fish sauce, taste, and adjust the seasoning.
Cook the noodles
Boil the rice vermicelli for four minutes until tender, then drain and divide between bowls.
4 minServe
Ladle the hot broth over the noodles, top each bowl with half a hard-boiled egg, and garnish with cilantro, fried onion and lime wedges.
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